embroidery 101

Pack your bags because we’re going back to school to learn the ABC’s of Indian embroidery (and textiles)! Every state and region in India enjoys its own style of embroidery. Needlework is not the only means of decorating the fabric but the fabrics are also embellished by stories of the community, with motifs emerging from natural surroundings, religious inscriptions, economic state, etc. For this week’s feature, learn about the history and technique of the intricate Aari embroidery. The first use of Aari dates back to the 12th century and is still used by designers around the world today.

Aari gets its name from the Hindi word ‘Aar’, which is the name of the small, hooked needle used by craftsmen to create the designs.

aari (or ari)

Aari is a kind of chain-stitching that uses a hooked needle called an aar. The technique was originally developed to embroider decorative elements onto leather shoes. It was later adapted to be used on cloth.

Origins for the embroidery style can be traced back to the 12th century. The technique for the embroidery likely originated in the Mochi community located in the Indian state of Gujarat. The Mochi community are a group that traditionally made and repaired footwear.

Aari gets its name from the Hindi word ‘Aar’, which is the name of the small, hooked needle used by craftsmen to create the designs.

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technique

To properly embroider cloth using the Aari technique, a pattern is first traced on transparent paper by a specialized artisan. Small holes, or perforations, are then made around the outline of the pattern and the paper is placed on the fabric. A special chalk is then rubbed over the paper to imprint the pattern on the fabric below. The fabric is mounted on a rectangular wooden frame to begin the embroidery process.

The craftsmen use a swift, repetitive technique of creating loops, which start from the top of the fabric, to make fine lines of chain stitches. The Aari embroidery technique demands an enormous amount of skill, training, precision, and patience.

uses today

Following Britain’s invasion of India, English influence brought some changes to the embroidery designs. Royal garments from the 17th century, using the Aari technique, sport European botanical motifs like daffodils and irises. Tambour embroidery, the Western name for Aari, emerged in Europe in the 18th century. The stitch quickly became a common pastime for women. Many of its finest examples were brought to Britain and France from India. The only change that was made in the technique was the introduction of Tambour, a frame.

Today, it is common practice in Aari embroidery to use small beads and sequins to achieve richer effects on clothing. Gold, silver, and copper threads called zari are also used to create the patterns.

aari use by designers